digital art

Abstract, No-5, 2009

Abstract, No-5, 2009, originally uploaded by N. Nur.

I don’t have very much to say today.

At times, I think a lot of words are wasted on saying nothing of importance, really.

However, I heard something very insightful the other day from Jay Maisel (from an interview on the Internet), he said something to the effect of, ‘you don’t capture pictures, they capture you.’

This makes a lot of sense to me. If I’m not captured by a subject, then it is probably not a subject that I would want to photograph. If that photo is not formed in my minds eye first, then for me, there is no photograph there.

That’s just a short thought for the day.

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BLUE & YELLOW DROPS

BLUE & YELLOW DROPS

Title: “Blue & Yellow Drops”
Creation Year: 2009
Drops and Paint in a Tub.

Uploaded by BEHIND the LENS with Nawfal Nur on 12 Jan 09, 11.39AM MYT.

Side Note: This is a pretty straight shot, very little PhotoImpact’ing (PhotoImpactX3), just boosted the contrast and saturation a little. I used the in-camera flash on the A620, on Macro, so had to crop out the negative space that happens when using flash in macro mode, but no big deal. Some specular highlight on left, but still details in highlight, so that is fine with me. Was happy not to fuss – want to try doing that more now, getting the photo by adjusting lighting and exposure better right off the bat; therefore, not so much fuss and time usage in post processing, which can EAT TIME like Godzilla on Steroids eating Tokyo! Have fun saving time! Get it right in camera if you can! Just be happy with your results.

BLADE BLUE HAND-667, No.1, Edit F

Blade Blue Hand, 667, No.1, Edit F, by Nawfal Nur

Blade Blue Hand, 667, No.1, Edit F, by Nawfal Nur

Title: “BLADE BLUE HAND, 667, No.1, Edit F”
Series: “BLUE HAND”
Number in Series: No. 1.
Genre: Abstract-Geometric-Expressionism
Mediums: Painting & Photography

Painter: Nawfal Nur
Photographer: Nawfal Nur
Art Direction: Nawfal Nur
Model: Nawfal Nur

Investment in Time:
* Prep Time for Equipment Set up: 1/2 Hour.
** Painting: 5 1/2 Hours.
*** Photography: 1/2 Hour.
**** Clean-up: 1 Hour.

Paint Supplies Used:
-1- Schmincke PRIMAcryl (Feinste Künstler-Acrylfarben).
-2- ZIG – KURECOLOR Permanent Alcohol based Ink.
-3- BUNCHO Water Colors.
-4- ALBRECHT DÜRER, Watercolour Pencils by FABER-CASTELL (8200 Series).
-5- Crayola “Brush Tips” Markers.
-6- Artline 70 High Performance Markers.
-7- MonAmi ACCU Liner Permanent Markers (Metallic Series).
-8- Pentel Permanent Markers (N850 Series).
-9- ESTĒE LAUDER Artist’s Eye Pencil – (01 SOFTSMUDGE BLACK).
-10- ESTĒE LAUDER Artist’s Lip Pencil-Crayon – (08 SPICE WRITER).

Camera:
CANON Powershot A620 with Modified Internal Flash Bounce Attachment. Aperture @ f/8.0 and Shutter Speed @ 1/80 sec. (I think…) ;^)

Lighting:
One 600-WATT SYSTEMS IMAGING Studio Flash with 2′ x 2′ BOWENS Softbox. MIRA Hydraulic Light Stands. Modeling on Cont., Power @ 1/16th Output. Distance to Subject, approx., 3-feet.

Additional Lighting or Lighting Aid Gear:
One 3′ x 3′ White Foam core bounce.

Support:
* bogen 3001 Professional Tripod.
** bogen 3025 head.
*** Manfrotto #352 Ball & Socket.
**** 3kg weight.

Computer Software:
* PhotoImpact X3.
————————-
As I mentioned in the text of the photo above, this will be my last photo addition to my Photostream at Flickr.

I have made a promise (to myself) to keep the “F-DEPRESSION” Series Images as close to the TOP of my Photostream as possible. Because with each new image addition, the older images get pushed deeper and deeper into the photostream. And that means, that these “F-DEPRESSION” photographs would eventually get lost in the masses of photos.

The ONLY way these images may help someone who is suffering from Depression, Anxiety or Chronic Pain is to see them, feel the shock value, read the text and GET HELP!!! And, that was the main reason I ventured into this very negative and self-expressing Photo & Text Series.

One of the key components of this type of work (body art), and one that I experienced firsthand, is that IT (the artwork) IS NOT LASTING!

Paint – Photograph – Wash – Rinse – Repeat the Wash & Rinse. Then, the painting is gone for ever! The final product, the actual artpiece is the Body Painted Photograph Portrait: The photograph – that is the lasting art work. The Painting is just part of the preparation! Get it!

This is NOT Airbrush, so the artwork is NOT smooth or finely detailed. I used Acrylic and Watercolours, along with Art Markers and applied them normally, and also with brush and artist’s knife. Some parts of the artwork are smooth and other textured. As the paints dry, the work cracks, so speed is important.

It was extremely painful for me to stand for that length of time – the arthritic A.S. types like myself usually can’t sit-stand-walk-or lie down for very long periods. However, I had to see if I could do it. After the completion of this work, it felt like someone had tortured me (kind of), like someone had been hitting the bottom of my feet with a metal ruler. If you have A.S., you may know that feeling: It’s No fun!!!

5 and 1/2 hours for one Right Arm! It’s the first work like this I’ve done. And, I can say that it was a really good experience and quite interesting to attempt painting oneself and working the camera. Strange feeling!

FROM NOW ON, PLEASE VISIT ME AT:

“BEHIND THE LENS!” (My Photography Journal where I’ve been writing, and where I’ve been exhibiting my Photography, since 2005).

smokephotographist.wordpress.com/

Nawfal Nur
“Behind the Lens!”
smokephotographist.wordpress.com/
27 Nov 2008

PS: “667” refers to what I ‘have seen’ termed as, “Neighbor of the Beast!” HOWEVER, my interpretation is different than probably the person who thought up this novel saying. Here’s how I see it:

“This world is Where the Wicked NEVER Rest, and the Righteous Struggle to just Stand their Ground!” Therefore, I am a ‘neighbor of the beast’ – evil that surrounds us all, daily – it is there, you don’t have to go far to find it.

Of course, perhaps it is much better to pretend that the world is a perfect place, so that you can sleep well at night, but this is just what people who don’t do anything to change it, want you to believe! Or, perhaps, it is what people who have it “made” want others to believe because they have all the resources available to them to ‘escape’ most of the evil that perpetuates itself daily, and around the world.

All you have to do is pick up a newspaper: There must be a lot of “evil” out there, or, the newspapers would NOT be so thick! News of Disasters, Crimes, Chaos, wars, famine, cruelty, and Injustice…this shit sells the News! I STOPPED reading the news a couple of years ago because it just perpetuates in a bad way, whatever stuff you got going on, that isn’t so good.

It is time to go…

Good night Moon!

Good night People!

pss: BTW: The “667” tattoo, I designed by computer software, but I may just have to ink myself with it one of these days!

Aurora Borealis over Ice, v1, Edit C – Small Colored Light Source Streaks Photography!

Aurora Borealis over Ice, v1, Edit C, originally uploaded by Nawfal Nur.

A small-scale, tabletop version of the Aurora Borealis. Green streaks of light shine and flare over a large cup of ice.

INGREDIENTS FOR THIS PHOTOGRAPH:  a.)  a tabletop, b.) dark room, c.) some sort of BLACK material for the background – I used a black plastic material, d.) sturdy tripod, e.) camera, f.) small light source(s) – I used penlights, g.) some sort of transparent colored material – gels, colored plastic, etc., h.) a large metal cup – I like the Zebra brand metal cups made in Thailand (very nice), i.) ice cubes filled to the top of the cup, j.) patience! 

This is an example of what you can do with long-exposures, small light sources, and some experimentation, in order to get colored light streaks in your photographs.

This is an “available” light photograph, meaning, that I used what small light sources were available to me, to create the streaks of green light during a long (1-second) shutter speed.

Don’t expect amazing results at first:  It may take a few (or 20) tries until you get good patterns that are pleasing, and enough streaks to fill the frame.

A flashlight (torchlight) with a colored bulb, or covered with colored transparent plastic material (gels), even powerful, colored LED lights may work well to create the special light necesary for this work.

Of course, “tripod” your camera and get it ready to go:  On this shot, I used a 1-Second shutter with an f/8.0 aperture.  

You may need to punch up the contrast and saturation of the streaks to make your final touches on the photograph:  I used Paint Shop Pro to saturate the colors, and this is a personal preference.

You don’t need to use green…use any color, use several colors, combine final images, GO CRAZY!

 

Opportunities & Preparedness…

Yellow Line, by Nawfal Nur, All Rights Reserved

“Yellow Line”
From the “Distinctive Georgetown” Portfolio
Bishop Street, Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
© 2008 Nawfal Nur
All Rights Reserved

Opportunities & Preparedness…

Always being prepared, having your camera with you, actively seeking out photographs with your eyes wide open, and seeing things differently are some of the major keys to taking better, and more interesting photographs.

Earl Nightingale said many things that I always want to strive for, and here are a few snippets of those things:  ‘Study and Prepare Yourself…Your mind is your richest resource…Look at your work with NEW Eyes…Serve the customer better than anyone else serves the customer…

Earl also said:  “We become what we think about.”

J.B. Matthews wrote:  “Unless a person has trained himself for his chance, the chance will only make him rediculous, a great occasion is worth to a man exactly what his preparation enables him to make of it.”  I’m sure that Mr. Matthews meant all people in his statement (as Earl N., mentioned), and Matthews’ statement is indeed, very profound, and very humbling.     

This is why knowing as much about your field, whether it is photography, or computer science, or WHATEVER, that you are a first-class professional in your chosen field.  Also, that you are constantly educating yourself about your profession, keeping up with the times and surpassing your competition.

Special Note:  See…I wasn’t prepared just now, I lost all my tags and categories for some strange reason…I should have saved all first.  Even when you think you are ready, you may not be ready.

The following video link is of one of my favorite guitarists, and perhaps, one of the best guitarists in the world (at this point in time).  The video was not recorded in a studio, but rather, at the NAMM show/exhibition, so the audio quality is a bit off, but if you listen to the playing and observe the technique, you will soon see why I believe Jeff Loomis, of the band NEVERMORE, is one of the best players around.  I have mainly put this video up here, to demonstrate someone in the field of music, who I believe is a first-class, prepared, professional.  You can substitute anyone of your choice in this type of exercise.  Pick someone you know is skilled in their field, it can be your field or another one.  Just watching someone who is at the top of their game, pushes you a little (or a lot) more, to improve yourself.

 

 

Bane in the Face of Finding Happiness

Metaltocracy by Nawfal Nur

Metaltocracy
by Nawfal Nur
All Rights Reserved

“Conformity and obedience,
Bane of all genius, virtue, freedom, truth,
Makes slaves of men and of the human frame,
A mechanized automaton.”
{Percy Bysshe Shelley – Source: Queen Mab, 1813}

“Truth is the bane of the Truthful.”
{Anon}

“Vanity” or “Business” Photography Sites…

I’ve been thinking about the time spent on the Internet regarding my photography. For those of you who are pursuing Photography as a business, this may be something that you ponder also.

“How much of your time is spent at the so-called, “Vanity” Photography Sites?”

I looked up the etymology of the word “vanity” as I am interested in the origins of words.

Vanity

c.1230, “that which is vain, futile, or worthless,” from O.Fr. vanite, from L. vanitatem (nom. vanitas) “emptiness, foolish pride,” from vanus “empty, vain, idle” (see vain). Meaning “self-conceited” is attested from c.1340. Vanity table is attested from 1936. Vanity Fair is from “Pilgrim’s Progress” (1678).

After considering the history and meaning of the word “vanity“, I thought again about the use of time spent on vanity photography websites, and I had to ask myself the question, “Why the hell am I doing this?

There is so much wasted time slipping by putting up my photographs at these sites. And for what purpose? To gain praise from other photographers; so in turn, I will traverse the ‘slow-assed ‘ broadband service here, to visit other peoples’ galleries, and to give them the obligatory “Atta’boys“.

For me, after some careful consideration, and knowing that time is relatively short, it didn’t make much sense.

After all, if you want to make photography part of your “income-life”, then the majority of time spent on your photography should be networking with “Art Buyers”, not other “Art Makers”. Marketing your work to art buyers is where the majority of your marketing time should be spent.

Sure, it is good to get feedback from your peers about your photo work. These vanity photography sites do serve a certain purpose in that instance. However, very quickly, your time spent adding photos, adding “friends”, getting comments, sending comments, etc., can quickly suck the marketing time out of you, time better spent in other places.

I might as well mention it here because all kinds of people will have all kinds of different criteria when labeling photography sites as “vanity sites,” or “otherwise.”

That being the case, I won’t mention the ones I consider vanity sites because I’ll probably get at least 50% of my readers saying: “You’re Crazy! That’s not a ‘vanity’ site, I don’t care how many people comment on my photographs with statements like, ‘Wow, that’s fantastic’, ‘Beautiful’, ‘What a hot babe!’, ‘Incredible Color’, ‘Amazing!’ , or, ‘Your focusing is spot-on!'”

But come on…Most people love to be praised for their photography, even if comments don’t say much about the technical details and intricacies about making a photograph.

And I’m fairly positive that most people probably don’t like comments like, “Wow, that’s a CRAP Photo!

LOLOL!

You don’t often see those types of comments at the vanity sites unless if the “CRAP Photo” commenter wants a “CRAP Photo” comment given in return, or being barred/blacklisted by the other person.

The funny thing is, however, that sometimes, “Wow, that’s a CRAP Photo” is so much closer to the true description of a photograph, rather than, “Wow, that’s really a swell photo!

So, what’s the point in giving inflated, and/or, false comments like that at these vanity photography sites?

What is important, is that if you spend the time at a vanity photography site, that you get something in return. Learning something new about photography from more learned photographers would be the most obvious benefit from these sites. That would be gained through constructive conversation about photography.

That does not always happen…

AT THESE VANITY WEB SITES…It is obviously no fun to be a selfless giver of good will and a constructive commenter to other photographers, and then in the end, you get NOTHING in return from all those “friends” you give nice, and or, actual constructive comments to.

There should be some sort of “reciprocal commenting:”

1570, from L. reciprocus “returning the same way, alternating,” from pre-L. *reco-proco-, from *recus (from re- “back” + -cus, adjective formation) + *procus (from pro- “forward” + -cus, adjective formation). The verb reciprocate “to return, requite” is recorded from 1820.

This thing that I term, “reciprocal commenting” happens quite regularly at these vanity photography sites, and that is nice.

Ye giveth, and ye shall receiveth!

HOWEVER, you will see many people at these vanity sites who love to receive comments, but rarely give return, reciprocal comments.

You will soon become fed up with these types of people, as it quickly becomes apparent that the ‘balance of commenting‘ has become overly side heavy in favor of those who don’t return the favor.

And you know, this can’t be tolerated in terms of Physics, or the stability of the world, because for every action there MUST be an equal and opposite reaction. Therefore, I see these people who love to receive comments, love the attention, and rarely, if ever, return equal comments, as being like black holes: comments are eagerly sucked in from all parts of the universe, or at least, the vanity photography Internet universe, but no comments ever escape and return to the givers.

So, this post has gone from the sublime to the ridiculous all too quickly. Nevertheless, there is a point here.

Be very clear on where you want to spend your valuable time regarding your photography. If you only want to pursue photography as a hobby, then perhaps sharing photographs on photo sharing websites is an ideal way of pursuing and sharing your interest in photography. There is a value received by seeing multitudes of photographs from thousands and millions of photographers from all over the world. It is an interesting way to see the world, to comment on other peoples’ photographs and to learn new things through an incredible amount of visual input. There’s nothing wrong with that!

However, if your goal is to earn money and become a working photographer, wanting to channel your marketing time more effectively to network with art buyers and potential clients, then perhaps networking websites (on the Internet), and ‘real world’ distribution of photo samples would be a better use of your “free time,” which should be considered an oxymoron – there is no such thing as free time – your time is something that you can never get back, so use it wisely!

Here is a partial selection of one of my Marketing Portfolios at Facebook. This is a site that I feel is worth some time if you are a photographer. The results are not coming fast, but you have a considerable chance of hooking up with photo buyers, or someone who may know someone who may want your imagery. AND, you can search out people strategically who you could connect with and form a mutual, beneficial alliance.

Nawfal Nur\'s Photography Portfolios at Facebook.

There are a few details I could mention about Facebook, but will save that for another time. I’m going to leave these ideas behind for my readers to ponder: To agree or disagree. The important thing is that you decide for yourself where your time is best spent.

I’m not in any way saying that Facebook is lacking vanity from its content. There’s plenty of vanity to go around in the Internet world. However, it’s HOW you structure your profile at Facebook that makes the difference between if you are there to gain attention, friends, fans…or, if you are there to network and improve your business, no matter what business you are doing.

Good luck!

Resizing Photographs!

Resizing photographs can be a tricky business.

The key is to re-size without *interpolating the digital file to a new, “bigger-better” size. When you interpolate upward by adding digital data to a photograph, the quality of your photographs start to degrade.

*”In computer graphics, image scaling is the process of resizing a digital image. Scaling is a non-trivial process that involves a trade-off between efficiency, smoothness and sharpness. As the size of an image is increased, so the pixels which comprise the image become increasingly visible, making the image appear “soft”. Conversely, reducing an image will tend to enhance its smoothness and apparent sharpness.” [Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_scaling ]

“So how can you re-size a photo and still keep the quality the same?”

Perhaps a better question is: “If I need to make a print of my original TIFF file, and the print has to be ‘huge’, what can I do to increase the size of the photograph, while keeping the quality of the printed photograph at very respectable Pixels Per Inch (Resolution)?”

OK, now that a more definite question has been artificially raised, I’ll tell you what my Professional Printer has advised me on more than one occasion; and after working with this Printer for some time, I can tell you that what she has advised is very good advice, and it works.

With my own eyes (yes, but of course), I’ve seen the difference in the printout from digital files I gave her from jpegs, compared to much better quality digital files in the tiff format.

Large printouts from tiffs are superior! (IMHO). TIFF is a ‘lossless’ file format: “Unlike standard JPEG, TIFF files using lossless compression (or no compression at all) can be edited and re-saved without suffering a compression loss. Other TIFF file options include multiple layers or pages.” [Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tagged_Image_File_Format]

The File from the Camera:

The files from my camera come out as JPEG files at 180ppi.

After uploading the JPEG files to my computer, before editing anything, I save them as TIFF files (NO compression). I prefer using XnView ( http://xnview.com/ ) to make this file format change to my photo files – right from the beginning.

I’ll use ‘resizing/resampling‘ to mean increasing or decreasing the print or dimension size of an image file. ‘Editing‘ would mean adding special effects, cleaning up dust, etc., from an image.

  • THE POINT IS: Save your Original JPEG files to TIFF BEFORE ‘Editing’ or ‘Resizing’ an image.

After saving the original JPEG files, which are 3 or 4MB in size, the same TIFF files automatically become 20 or 21MB in size (this is what I get with my camera & files – you will likely get something different).

The key is NOT to edit your digital files in the JPEG format. From what I understand, each time you edit from a JPEG file, and then save it, the quality gradually decreases as well. Maybe the degrading of the file is minute, but when making a print from these ‘overly edited and saved JPEG image files, defects may start to become noticeable.

The Digital File & the PPI Standard:

The next thing to keep in mind is that the PPI (Pixels Per Inch) Standard of your files should not dip below 150 as you adjust for your print output size.

According to my Printer, the quality of the printed photo starts looking ‘pixely‘ if the PPI drops below 150. The printout will also show pixels/jaggies if the image is interpolated to ridiculous proportions (to what degree of up-sampling an image becomes ‘ridiculous’, that is a judgment call – you may have a differing opinion).

  • You see, the method explained here is NOT about adding pixels to increase image size: We are simply decreasing the PPI, while keeping the image size (XnView’s “Screen Size”) at 100%. This in turn, increases the length and width of the photograph dimensions. When you decrease, and reach that 150PPI Standard, that is the LARGEST Print Size, in my opinion, that will look fantastic (in most cases). Any lower PPI, and you risk image quality. But then again, everyone will have different expectations, right!

PPI can also describe the resolution in pixels, of an image to be printed within a specified space. For instance, a 100×100-pixel image that is printed in a 1-inch square could be said to have 100 pixels per inch, regardless of the printer’s DPI capability. Used in this way, the measurement is only meaningful when printing an image.” [Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pixels_per_inch]

You may often hear that a digital file MUST be 300PPI for a “good” printout. Well, I’ll be the last person in the world to say “I know” it all. However, from my own experience and seeing my images printed using an EPSON Stylus Pro 9600, on Textured Fine Art Paper, at 1440 dpi (dots per inch), with a resolution of 150ppi, from a TIFF file, and as big as 46-inches in the longest print dimension – well, this printing combination makes for one very fine high-quality and detailed printout. Other printers, dpi and paper may cause other results, of course!

How to save as TIFF & Increase Print Dimensions Using XnView:

1) Upload images to your computer.

2) Start XnView.

3) Locate the JPEG image file you want to work with and double click on it.

4) Go to FILE, SAVE AS. Select TIFF Revision 6.

5) Click on the OPTIONS button. See the image below for my settings:

tiff options in XnView

6) Click on OK, and then SAVE.

7) Now, you have your TIFF File. You should see that the file extension of the image is now, .tif.

Eight – 8) At this point, you can work with and edit the image, and in this case, we want to increase the size of the image dimension to get a bigger printout, but keep the resolution at the ‘acceptable’ 150ppi. Let’s just assume that the original image file was 300ppi, and then go from there.

9) Click on IMAGE and then RE-SIZE (or use SHIFT S hotkey) – see image below.

Resizing using XnView300ppi

9) The Units (resolution) is 300, Print Out size would be 7.68 x 10.24 inches (roughly less than A4 Sized), and the W & H are at 100% (Screen Size). Make sure the Keep Ratio square is checked, and I usually use the Hanning Resample Method. Lanczos is also very good.

10) At this point, you want to change the settings to get the largest print size you can get, while keeping the Units at 150 (minimum) and the W & H staying at 100% in the “Screen Size” section. (see the image below).

Resizing using XnView150ppi at 50percent

11) Look at the screen shot above: You see what has happened? When you decrease the Units to 150, the W & H changes to 50% in “Screen Size”. At this point you need to change the W & H to 100 (see the image below)

Resizing using XnView150ppi at 100percent

12) Once you have changed the Screen Size W & H to 100%, the W & H of the Print Size increases to 15.36 x 20.48 inches. At these settings, you can still create a very good print, at a larger dimension size, and without image quality compromise.

13) Let’s say now that you want to use this same digital file to create a 72-inch printout on the longest side, and you are curious about what the Units would be at that size, as well as, keeping the Screen Size at roughly 100% (see the images below). But first, let’s back up the truck and try something ridiculous…

72inches at 352percent

Enter 72-inches in the Height box (Print Size Section). This increases the Screen Size (interpolated %/resampling %) to 352%. Your Units (Resolution) have stayed the same, at 150PPI, but other things have changed.

If you hit the OK button using these settings, you will end up with an interpolated digital file that is HUGE, and has a whole bunch of artificially added pixels just to accommodate the pushed/enlarged image size! (the new file data is in the strip below)

OM interp 352 percent stats

The new file size is 250.98MB!!! And the new file dimensions (Print Size) are 8,110 x 10,813 pixels!!! Outrageous! Did I mention that this file is HUGE!

Now, look at a section of this image at 100%.

Oyster Mushroom interp at 352Percent

Sure, it’s big, but the image is soft, is not very clear, and has “jaggies”. It would have been much worse if increased from the JPEG original.

Now, have a look a 100% section of the 20MB TIFF file that has NOT been interpolated. Remember, the PPI was just adjusted from 300 to 150ppi. This image is very clean because it has NOT be interpolated in any way.

Oyster Mushroom no interp at 100Percent

Of course, you can’t print this one out at 72-inches, but who cares! It will look great at 20.48 inches.

If you try printing the other one, the huge interpolated one, you will more than likely see quite a quality decrease when printed at a large size, AND MAYBE, it won’t look as good at 20.48-inches because the pixels were screwed around with.

And yet, someone may still say: “You can make a 20.48 inch photograph from the 8,110 x 10,813 pixel file!”

Oyster Mushroom interp at 526ppi

“Ah, yeah, that’s interesting!” However, why waste 250MB of hard drive space to make a printout, for which you can make the same sized printout (of better quality because it has NOT been tampered with/interpolated/resampled), from a 20MB TIFF file? And, isn’t 526PPI a little overkill? (see the number details in the image above)

Resizing using XnView72inches43ppi at 101percent

14) JUST FOR KICKS! What if you want to see what the Units will be while keeping the Screen Size at roughly 100% (101% in this case) and making a print at 72-inches? The screen shot above shows what settings you would end up working with to make a 72-inch print. The resolution (Units) of the image is reduced to 43ppi: The resolution falls way below the 150PPI Standard for which we’ve been using as our minimum. In other words, at 43PPI the printout could end up being horrible!

  • DON’T TAKE MY WORD FOR IT. Try it yourself, take the image file to your printer, have them blow up, and printout a small section of the photograph with settings at 72-inches (longest side), and set the “Units” smaller than 150PPI. If it meets your requirements, then by all means, make the print. If not, however, then try making a smaller print by reducing the “Print Size.”

Conclusion:

In my humble opinion, there are limits to the size of a good printout, and it depends on working with a very good TIFF file, setting a minimum PPI ‘Standard’ (minimum at 150PPI), and NOT interpolating/resampling the file – if possible.

This is where the bigger sized Mega Pixels Cameras come in handy – you get bigger sized originals to work with.

Good Luck!

March Castle Ruins, v5, Edit C

 

March Castle Ruins, v5, Edit C, originally uploaded by fine-grain.

This image is a “constructed image” of a Sci-Fi, or, Medieval type of Genre. All parts of the photograph are real, except the water.

The castle ruins and red sandstone landmass, are models that I made (sculpted/formed) and painted. The surface is made to look weather-worn and ancient.

The photograph title reflects that I made this image in March of this year (2007).

Lighting for this “macro-landscape” setting is tricky, but not so difficult if well thought out.

The important thing for me when doing these types of multi-medium artworks is that when I construct it, the parts of the image becomes a story, or a History.

Lebuh King – 1 Block, Edit B

Lebuh King – 1 Block, Edit B, originally uploaded by fine-grain. *See at the bottom of this entry, for a link to a larger view*

This week I’ll be starting a new project and quite busy for about three weeks: I suspect I won’t be on Flickr much, probably.

That being the case, today I wanted to work on a personal project: A very massive and time consuming project it ended up becoming. I wanted to do a big project for my Penang Architecture Portfolio…”Lebuh King – 1 Block, Edit B, is “The Project” I worked on today.

A side note: I’m not quite sure why the biggest image I could upload was stuck at 1024 wide – the file I uploaded was 3000+ pixels wide. Hummmm. I’ll see if I can reload the photo…(Update: No, the damned thing won’t load up the proper sized image, so What’ the ….)

OK, anyway, this is a FULL Block Photograph, taken along Lebuh King, in Little India, Penang, between Lebuh Gereja and Lebuh China.

I went early in the morning so to avoid some of the Sunday morning shoppers and tourists, etc. Nevertheless, as I started, there was one obstacle after another getting in my way…cars parked where I needed to be, people, shop carts, it was madness!

To say this is a huge task to take a panorama like this is an understatement. It’s easy to take a panorama with all sorts of distortion and uncorrected perspective, but to change the perspective on each shot and then attempt to make it line up, in a straight line afterward, is kind of a royal pain, but educational.

This image is a series of 16 shots.

Each image was Perspective Corrected (to the best fit for the adjoining of all images).

Each image was hand placed and aligned. Minor aberrations were removed and corrected. That said, this image is not exactly “factual” – it can’t be under the circumstances. Some architectural details needed to be removed just to adjoin the separate images.

Shooting time was about 30 minutes. Image processing and editing work was 16-hours.

The original image is nearly 26,000 pixels wide. I had to up my virtual memory to 6GB so that the software wouldn’t crash – could sure use a duel or quad core machine.

I discovered that probably the best way to do this type of shot is using a rail-system, like camera crews use in the making of movies. I would need to partition off a section of road (probably need Polis Permission to do that, LOLOL), set up a rail system, place my tripod and camera on there and roll it along down the road as I take pictures.

I used my tripod, but with all the bumps in the road, and the double parked cars in the way and other obstructions, I was never assured that my camera was in the same alignment each time the shutter was released – VERY PROBLEMATIC! Each time the angle changes even a little bit, the perspective is totally jacked-up! The frustrations of keeping everything lined up had to come later when working on the computer.

If I had had the time and the forethought, I would have taken with me a 100-foot measuring tape, lay out a very straight line, marked with spray paint, so I know where my tripod feet need to be placed, etc. However, I’m wondering if that constitutes “destruction or defacing of public property” by marking the road, hehehehehe. Oh well, may be worthwhile finding out, ; ^ )

That would solve the straight line problem, but then you have the other angles to keep lined up (the ups & downs and the level of the camera). Potholes are still a problem in this regard.

Because of the close working distance, in some sections of the road, not all the building parts were captured, so that is why some of the buildings are sliced. Other portions were just so badly out of perspective, that the only option was to chop them off at the offending level.

Using the “Stitching” software was tried first, but I was not happy with the way it creates unusual shaped merged images (sideway S-images), so that each image fits the puzzle (so to speak). Plus, the perspective is still messed up when using the “Stitch” software.

Anyway, I never tried shooting the entire length of a city block, so this is the resulting project for Lebuh King, from Lebuh Gereja to Lebuh China. A wonderful mix of historic architecture in one shot!

I just wish that you could see the 3000 pixel-wide sized image I had planned to upload to my gallery – Oh Well…This will have to do, but it’s not the same effect as the “Big-Ass” Shot!

Uploaded by fine-grain on 22 Oct 07, 1.52AM MYT.

PS: I hope this works – I’m uploading the larger 3000+ wide pixel image so you can get a better look at the details in this work. Wish me luck… Update: Nope, can’t seem to get an image that is “wide” to show up properly here or at Flickr. What the Hell! What! Panoramic Images are not taken into consideration for images sent to Flickr and WordPress. A little grumpy now…What’s wrong with scrolling a little sideways to see the full, big image on the screen, it’s not that big of a pain-in-the-ass to do that – Most people probably wouldn’t mind sliding the scroll bar sideways to see the larger image.

Well, sorry folks, but we are stuck with seeing the 1024-pixel-wide image. Oh Well, that’s life!

Lebuh King Historic Preservation Image, from Lebuh Gereja to Lebuh China, in Little India, Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia.  Photography by Nawfal Nur, All Rights Reserved - The image is meant for “viewing” only!  No copying or saving, please!

Ball-Splash-IMG_1922

Ball-Splash-IMG_1922, originally uploaded by fine-grain.

In photography, the smallest thing can be a great subject. The little, human detail can become a Leitmotiv (recurring phrase or theme in a work of art).” Henri Cartier-Bresson

This shot combines Physics (waves, collisions), Art (form, color, design), and Photography (High-Speed, Stop Action, Macro). This is a prime example of Action & Reaction, Cause & Effect. The Waves in this image are, I suspect, the “recurring phrase” that holds the water droplet image together, and links it to my other water droplet images.

NWD

NWD, originally uploaded by fine-grain.

Layers of Abstraction to make a single image: It is not really layers at all. A riddle or reality?